Real vs Fake Leather: 8 Ways to Check Before You Buy
Updated October 2026. Written by the Kordovan workshop team.
Rexine and PU are often sold as leather in Pakistan, sometimes at leather prices. In a shop you can usually tell the difference in under a minute once you know where to look. Online it is harder, so this guide covers both: eight checks you can do with the piece in your hands, and what to look for on a product page before you order.
We sell leather goods. Kordovan makes wallets, jackets, bags and belts, so we have an interest in this topic. Every test below works on any brand, ours included, and none of them needs special tools.
The short answer
Look at the cut edge and the back. Real leather shows tightly packed fibres on the edge and a fuzzy, suede-like underside. Rexine and PU show a thin shiny layer stuck onto woven fabric or mesh. If you can only do one check, do this one.
Leather, PU and rexine: what each one actually is
| Material | What it is | How it ages |
|---|---|---|
| Real leather | Animal hide (usually cow, buffalo, sheep or goat) that has been tanned so it does not rot. | Softens, darkens and picks up a patina. A good piece lasts many years with basic care. |
| PU leather | Fabric coated with polyurethane and pressed with a leather-like grain. | Looks fine at first, then cracks and peels, often within a year or two of regular use. |
| Rexine | The local name for fabric coated with PVC (sometimes PU). Common on car seats, sofas and cheap jackets. | Stiff, does not breathe, and peels at folds and edges. |
"Vegan leather" and "faux leather" are usually PU. Some brands sell them openly, which is fine. The problem is only when they are sold as leather.
Grades of real leather, in plain words
- Full-grain: the top layer of the hide with its natural surface left on. The strongest grade, and the one that ages best.
- Top-grain: the top layer with the surface lightly sanded or finished for an even look. Slightly softer and more uniform. Most good leather jackets use it.
- Split and suede: the lower layers of the hide. Suede is a split with a brushed, napped finish. Real leather, but weaker than the top layers.
- Bonded leather: leftover scraps ground up and glued onto a backing. It contains some leather but behaves like PU and peels the same way.
One label trap: abroad, "genuine leather" is sometimes printed on lower grades. In Pakistan sellers use it to mean "real". Ask which grade it is, or check the product page.
8 ways to check if leather is real
1. Look at the cut edge
Find an unfinished edge, inside a card slot, at a seam, or where a strap ends. Real leather shows a dense layer of fibres, a bit like the edge of thick cardboard. PU and rexine show a thin plastic layer on top of fabric threads, and sometimes you can see the two layers separating.
2. Check the back side
Turn the piece over or look under the lining. The underside of real leather is fibrous and slightly fuzzy, like suede. A woven or knitted fabric backing means it is coated fabric.
3. Look closely at the surface
Real hide has pores and grain that vary across the piece, with the odd small scar or crease. Fake leather has a pressed pattern that repeats perfectly. If two areas look identical, be suspicious.
4. Press and bend it
Press a fingertip into the surface or fold a corner. Real leather forms fine wrinkles that soften away when you let go, and the colour can lighten slightly at the fold. PU and rexine dent without wrinkling, or form a hard crease that stays.
5. Smell it
Real leather has a warm, earthy smell. Fake leather smells of plastic or chemicals, or of nothing at all. Heavy perfume or polish can hide the smell, so do not rely on this check alone.
6. Feel the temperature
Hold it for a minute. Real leather warms up to your hand and feels slightly soft. Rexine stays cool and smooth, a bit like plastic.
7. The water drop test
Put one small drop of water on a hidden spot. Uncoated leather absorbs it slowly and darkens for a moment before drying. Coated fabric lets the drop sit on top. Some real leathers are finished or waxed and will also make the drop bead, so a bead alone does not prove it is fake. Wipe it off straight away.
8. The lighter test (only on something you already own)
This is the test most people in Pakistan have heard of. Pass a lighter flame under an edge for a second or two, keeping it moving. Real leather may char slightly and smells like burnt hair. PU and rexine melt, bubble or shrink and smell of burning plastic.
Be careful with it. A flame can leave a mark even on real leather, and a shop will not thank you for testing their stock. Use it only on a hidden spot of something you have already bought, and only if the other checks left you unsure.
How to check before you buy online
- Read the material line. A real leather product names the hide and grade, for example "top-grain sheep leather". Vague wording such as "premium leather look" or "leather finish" usually means PU.
- Zoom into the photos. Look for an edge or the inside of a pocket. Sellers of real leather tend to show it; sellers of PU tend to show only the shiny front.
- Check the price. Hide, tanning and stitching cost money. A full leather jacket for a few thousand rupees, or a "leather" wallet cheaper than a meal out, deserves a second look.
- Read the warranty and returns. A brand confident in its leather usually backs it with a warranty and a clear returns policy.
- Ask the seller directly. Ask what animal and which grade. A straight answer is a good sign. "100% original sir" with no detail is not.
What real leather costs in Pakistan
We will not quote other brands' prices, because they change often and a wrong number is worse than none. For reference, here is our own range for real leather:
- Leather wallets: Rs 1,499 to Rs 6,500
- Leather jackets: Rs 22,000 to Rs 35,000, made to order in top-grain sheep leather
Cheaper real leather exists, especially in smaller items and lower grades. But when a jacket is priced like a fabric jacket, the material is the first thing to question.
Where Kordovan fits
Every product page on our site names the leather it is made from. Our jackets are top-grain sheep leather, cut and stitched to order in our own workshop. Each product page also states its warranty, and most of our leather pieces carry a lifetime craftsmanship warranty.
We also sell two bags that are not leather, and we say so in the name: The Diva Tote // Vegan and The Vibe // LITE // Vegan. If you want leather, skip those two. If you prefer to avoid animal products, they are the ones for you.
If you want to compare brands side by side, see our guide to leather brands in Pakistan. Once you own a leather piece, our leather care guide explains how to keep it in good shape.
Frequently asked questions
Is "genuine leather" real leather?
Yes, it is made from hide. Outside Pakistan the phrase is sometimes used for lower grades, so ask whether it is full-grain, top-grain or split.
Is PU leather real leather?
No. PU leather is fabric coated with polyurethane. It is cheaper and can look good at first, but it does not age like leather and usually peels with time.
What is rexine?
Rexine is fabric coated with PVC or PU and embossed to look like leather. It is common on car seats, furniture and low-priced jackets.
Does real leather crack or peel?
Real leather can dry out and crack if it is never cleaned or conditioned, but it does not peel in flakes. Peeling is a sign of a coating on fabric, which means PU, rexine or bonded leather.
Which test is the most reliable?
The cut edge and the back side. They show what the material is made of, and they do not damage anything.
Is the lighter test safe?
It can mark the surface even on real leather. Only use it on a hidden spot of something you own, and only if the other checks were not clear.
Bottom line
Check the edge and the back first, then the surface and the feel. Use water or a flame only when the easy checks leave you unsure. And when you buy online, choose a seller who names the leather and puts a warranty behind it.